Rock Climbing in Logan, UT
If you are rock climbing in Logan, UT, Logan Canyon has some of the best climbing routes in northern Utah. The limestone cliffs in the canyon provide a variety of climbing options, including sport, traditional, and bouldering routes that range from beginner to expert levels. This is just a sampling of the many routes these areas have to offer.
China Wall
Climbing Grade: 5.8 to 5.12
This is one of the most popular climbing spots in Logan Canyon, with routes that cater to intermediate and advanced climbers. The limestone rock here offers over 40 sport climbing routes with heights ranging from 40 to 100 feet and grades from 5.8 to 5.12, making it ideal for climbers looking to push their limits on vertical terrain.
Some of the most well-regarded routes at China Wall include Caged Tiger, a 5.11b known for its technical moves and overhanging sections, Last Dance, a 5.10d route popular for its accessibility and enjoyable movement, and Bullet the Blue Sky, a 5.12a route offering a technical challenge with small, sharp holds on slightly overhanging terrain.
The Witch
Climbing Grade: 5.10 to 5.13
The Witch and The Witches Cauldron are closely located climbing areas within Logan Canyon. They are often mentioned together because of their proximity and similar limestone rock quality. The Witch features more challenging, technical routes that generally for intermediate and advanced climbers.
Routes here tend to be steeper with sustained sequences and small holds. Skull Fracture, a 5.11c route is a classic, featuring technical sequences with crimps and small footholds. It demands precision and balance. Try Broomstick, a 5.10a known for being accessible and fun, offering sustained climbing with interesting holds and a mix of moves that keep it engaging without being overly difficult.
The Witches Cauldron
Climbing Grade: 5.6 to 5.8
The Witches Cauldron, nearby The Witch, is slightly more accessible and has a mix of easier and moderate routes alongside some challenging ones. It includes beginner-friendly climbs in the 5.6 to 5.8 range, as well as some intermediate routes. Bathtub Mary is one of the easier routes and is ideal for beginners. It’s a 5.7 with a straightforward path with solid holds and gentle climbing. Black Magic is a popular route at the 5.9 level, offering engaging movement without being overly difficult.
The route’s combination of jugs, pockets, and occasional crimps make it a favorite for intermediate climbers who want a challenge without extreme difficulty.
First Practice Wall
Climbing Grade: 5.4 to 5.10
This spot is perfect for beginners and climbers who are looking to practice, with a variety of routes graded from 5.4 to 5.10. Located close to the canyon entrance, the First Practice Wall is easily accessible and ideal for learning the basics or warming up. Beginner’s Delight lives up to its name, providing an easy, confidence-building climb. With large holds and a straightforward path, this 5.5 route allows climbers to focus on technique without worrying about tricky moves.
Left Hand is a classic 5.6 beginner route that’s well-loved for its gentle angle and easy holds. It provides a comfortable introduction to outdoor climbing, with larger footholds and an easy path to follow. Practice Makes Perfect is a popular 5.8 route with more sustained movement and some technical sections that test balance and body positioning. It’s an ideal step up for climbers comfortable on easier grades and looking for a bit more challenge.
Black Rock
Climbing Grade: 5.10 to 5.12
Known for its challenging climbs, this area has several unique features, such as overhangs and cracks. The limestone here is solid, and the routes are known for their interesting sequences. Caveman is a 5.11a route with a mix of pockets, crimps, and side-pulls that keep climbers on their toes. Black Out is a demanding 5.12a route with small, sharp holds and a steep incline, requiring strong footwork and endurance.
Crescent Wall
Climbing Grade: 5.8 to 5.11
Crescent Wall has high-quality limestone and offers a mix of routes for intermediate and advanced climbers. Egyptian Ridge is a 5.10c route and one of the most popular ones in the area, offering a fun, sustained climb with good holds and thoughtful sequences. Half Moon Rising is a challenging 5.12a route for advanced climbers, Half Moon Rising offers a mix of technical crimping and powerful moves. The steep, slightly overhung sections and small holds make this route demanding but rewarding for those looking to push their limits.